Trad

Build a Trad Rack That Works for You

There isn't a single perfect setup for trad climbing gear.

What you carry will depend on the rock, the route, your experience and the type of climbing you enjoy. One climber's go-to rack might look very different from somebody else's, and that's completely normal!

If you're already climbing trad, you may know exactly what you're missing. If you're newer to it, it's worth taking your time. Trad climbing isn't just about owning the gear; it’s about understanding how and when to use it.

Our coaches are happy to help if you're unsure which equipment in our range would make sense for where you are with your climbing.

Start with Nuts, Wires and Passive Protection

Many trad racks start with passive protection. Pieces such as nuts and wires that sit securely in cracks or constrictions in the rock without any moving parts.

The DMM Wallnut Wire Set 1–11 offers a broad range of sizes, while the Wallnut Wire Set 7–11 is useful if you're looking to add some larger sizes to an existing rack.

The DMM Alloy Offsets 7–11 have a different shape from standard Wallnuts and are designed with irregular and flared cracks in mind. Rather than replacing Wallnuts, they can add another option to your rack.

For larger passive protection, the DMM Torque Nut Set 1–4 gives you another way to cover different placements.

This is where building a rack starts to become personal. As you climb more, you get a better feel for the protection you reach for most often and where you might want a few more options.

Where Do Cams Fit In?

Cams give you another type of protection to work with.

The DMM Dragon Cam Set 2–4 uses moving lobes to cover a range of crack widths, so they work differently from nuts, offsets and other passive protection.

They aren't simply an “upgrade” from wires. Many climbers use a mixture of both, choosing between them depending on the placement and the climb.

If you've already started building a rack around Wallnuts or Offsets, cams can offer another option and broaden the range of protection you're carrying.

Quickdraws, Slings and the Rest of Your Rack

Protection is only part of the setup.

The DMM Spectre Quickdraw Set of 6 gives you six all-round quickdraws, making it a useful option if you're starting to put a rack together or adding to what you already have.

The DMM Dynatec 11mm Sling 120cm offers a longer sling option for situations where greater extension is appropriate.

And then there's the DMM Nutbuster, a small bit of kit you'll be very glad to have when a piece of protection really doesn't want to come back out.

What Goes on a Trad Rack?

There's no single checklist that works for every climber or every route, but a trad rack can include:

• nuts, wires and other passive protection
• cams
• quickdraws
• slings
• carabiners
• a nut key
• rope
• harness
• belay device

The important bit is building a rack around the climbing you're actually doing and the equipment you know how to use.

If you're putting together the rest of your setup, you can also browse our climbing carabiners, climbing ropes and belay devices.

What About Single-Pitch and Multi-Pitch Trad?

A lot of the same types of equipment appear in both single-pitch and multi-pitch trad climbing, but that doesn't mean every rack will look the same.

Longer routes can change how much equipment you carry, how you organise it and how carefully you need to think about rope management. The route itself, the rock and your own experience will all influence what makes sense.

That's why we'd always rather help you think about the climbing you're actually planning than give you a generic list and tell you that's everything you need!

Frequently Asked Questions About Trad Climbing Gear

What trad climbing gear do I need?

Trad climbing gear can include nuts and wires, cams, quickdraws, slings, carabiners, and a nut key, alongside your rope, harness, and belay equipment.

Exactly what you need will depend on the route, the rock, and your experience, so there isn't a single rack that works for everyone.

What's the difference between nuts and cams?

Nuts are passive protection with no moving parts. They are placed into suitable cracks or constrictions in the rock.

Cams use moving lobes and cover a range of crack widths. Many climbers carry a mixture of both rather than choosing one instead of the other.

What is a nut key used for?

A nut key helps remove protection that's difficult to retrieve after it has been placed.

The DMM Nutbuster is the nut key in our current trad range.

Is there a standard trad rack?

Not really, and that's part of trad climbing.

Different routes, rock types and climbers call for different combinations of equipment. Your rack will normally change as your experience grows and you get a better feel for the protection you use most.

Building or Adding to Your Trad Rack?

Whether you're starting with your first few pieces or you've already got a rack that's seen plenty of days out, we're happy to help you work out what might make sense to add next.

Tell us what you're already carrying, the kind of trad climbing you're doing and what you're looking for. We can help you compare the options in our range and point you in the right direction.

If you're updating the rest of your kit at the same time, you can also browse our climbing harnesses.