Belay

Choosing the Right Belay Device

There isn't one belay device that's right for every climber. What suits you will depend on where you're climbing, the rope system you're using and the features you'll genuinely make use of.

If you're looking for a belay device for regular indoor climbing, the DMM Mantis is one we'd happily recommend. It's a lightweight manual device with two friction configurations and is a straightforward option for climbers who prefer a traditional belay setup.

If your climbing is starting to take you outdoors, the picture can change. Sport climbing, trad climbing and multi-pitch routes can all place different demands on your equipment, so it's worth choosing a device around the climbing you're actually planning to do.

Whatever you choose, check that the device is compatible with your rope diameter, connecting carabiner and intended use before buying.

Compare Our DMM and EDELRID Belay Devices

We've kept our range focused on a small number of belay devices with different functions, so it's easier to compare what each one actually does.

The DMM Mantis is a manual friction device and one we recommend considering for indoor climbing.

The DMM Pivot is also a manual device, but adds guide-mode functionality. That makes it worth exploring if your climbing includes suitable multi-pitch setups or belaying a second.

The EDELRID JUL² takes a different approach, using its geometry to provide braking assistance with compatible single ropes.

The EDELRID Mega Jul is another assisted-braking option, with additional functionality that may appeal to climbers looking for more flexibility across different climbing situations.

The EDELRID PINCH uses a cam-assisted braking mechanism, giving you another type of assisted-braking system to compare.

Rather than looking for the device with the longest feature list, think about which functions you'll actually use and how each option fits with the rest of your climbing gear.

Manual or Assisted-Braking Belay Device?

Manual belay devices such as the Mantis and Pivot use friction to help the belayer manage the rope. Assisted-braking devices add a mechanism or design that provides additional braking assistance.

That assistance doesn't make the device automatic. Correct belaying technique, active control of the brake strand and proper instruction are still essential.

The JUL², Mega Jul and PINCH also work in different ways, so it's important to learn how the particular device you choose is intended to operate rather than assuming all assisted-braking devices behave the same way.

If you're buying a new device to use with your existing equipment, check the manufacturer's instructions and make sure it's compatible with your climbing rope.

What Is the EDELRID OHMEGA Used For?

The EDELRID OHMEGA is a little different from the other products in this category.

It isn't a standalone belay device. Instead, it's a braking assistant designed to work within a compatible belay system and provide additional braking assistance.

This can be particularly useful where climbing partners have a noticeable weight difference, but it doesn't replace your belay device or correct belaying technique.

If you're considering an OHMEGA, make sure it's suitable for your rope, your existing belay setup and the type of climbing you're planning.

Belay Devices for Indoor, Sport and Outdoor Climbing

Your belay setup can change as your climbing changes.

For indoor climbing, we specifically recommend the DMM Mantis as a good option. For sport climbing, other belay devices in the range may also be suitable depending on the rope, climbing setup and your preferred system. 

If you're moving into trad or multi-pitch climbing, additional functions such as guide mode may become more relevant. The important thing is to match the device to the climbing you intend to do rather than assuming something you use at your local wall will automatically suit every outdoor route.

Frequently Asked Questions About Belay Devices

Which belay device is suitable for indoor climbing?

The DMM Mantis is one we'd recommend considering for regular indoor climbing. Other devices may also be suitable depending on your rope, experience and preferred belay system, so always check the manufacturer's intended uses before choosing.

How do I know if a belay device works with my climbing rope?

Check the manufacturer's specified rope-diameter range for the exact device you're considering. Compatibility varies between products, so don't assume every belay device will work correctly with every rope.

Do I need a particular carabiner with my belay device?

Some belay devices have specific requirements for the type, shape or connection method of the carabiner used with them. Always check the manufacturer's instructions before pairing the two.

We believe the DMM Oval O screwgate carabiner is an option for indoor climbing, though it isn't suitable for every belay device or setup. 

Not Sure Which Belay Device to Choose?

There can be quite a bit to compare, especially if you're moving beyond the equipment you've used at your local wall or trying a different type of belay system for the first time.

Tell us a bit about the climbing you're doing and the equipment you already have, and we'll happily help you compare the options. Get in touch for personalised equipment advice. 

You can also explore our climbing ropes, climbing harnesses and carabiners if you're putting together the rest of your setup.