Carabiners

Choosing the Right Climbing Carabiner

Climbing carabiners can look quite similar at first glance, but their shape, size and locking mechanism can make them better suited to different climbing experiences.

Before choosing one, think about what you'll actually be using it for. A carabiner for a belay device may need different characteristics from one being used for rope management, connecting equipment or building out a trad setup.

It's also important to check that the carabiner is suitable for the equipment you're pairing it with. Manufacturer guidance for your belay device or other climbing equipment should always take priority.

Compare Our DMM Climbing Carabiners

We've kept our range focused on a small number of DMM carabiners with genuinely different uses, so it's easier to compare what each one offers.

The DMM Belay Master is designed specifically for belaying. Its nylon clip can only be closed after the screwgate is shut and helps keep the carabiner oriented correctly during use. If you're looking for a dedicated belay carabiner rather than a more general-purpose locker, this is the most specialised option in the range.

The DMM Phantom is a compact Offset D locking carabiner. If you want something smaller and lighter for general climbing connections, it offers a more compact alternative to the wider HMS designs.

The DMM Phantom HMS gives you the wider basket of an HMS carabiner in a relatively compact design. It's worth considering if you want more room for rope work, belaying or rigging without moving to a larger carabiner.

If you prefer more working space, the DMM Shadow HMS has a larger basket. That makes it a more practical choice when you need extra room for ropes or knots than the Phantom HMS provides.

The DMM Ultra O is different again. Its symmetrical oval shape helps connected equipment sit more centrally, so it's useful when you're pairing a carabiner with compatible belay devices, pulleys or other climbing equipment.

The Ultra O is also available in a pack of three if you need several matching oval carabiners for your setup.

HMS, Offset D and Oval Carabiners : The Difference

The shape of a climbing carabiner affects how ropes, devices and other equipment sit inside it.

HMS carabiners have a wider basket, giving more room for rope work and knots. In our range, the Phantom HMS is the more compact option, while the Shadow HMS gives you additional working space.

Offset D carabiners, such as the Phantom, have an asymmetrical shape that directs the load towards the main spine of the carabiner while keeping the design relatively compact.

Oval carabiners, such as the Ultra O, are symmetrical. This helps keep connected equipment centred, which can be useful with certain belay devices, pulleys and other climbing systems.

There isn't one shape that's automatically better than the others. The more useful question is which design makes sense for what you're actually connecting.

Carabiners for Belaying, Trad and Multi-Pitch Climbing

Your choice of carabiner can change depending on the climbing you're doing and where it sits within your setup.

For indoor climbing, the Oval O screwgate is a good option to consider alongside the DMM Mantis belay device. The Belay Master is another purpose-designed option if you're looking for a carabiner for a compatible belay setup.

If you're moving into trad climbing, carabiners become part of a much wider equipment system. 

The exact choice you should make will depend on what you're connecting and how you're using it, so don't assume the same carabiner will be the right fit for every part of your setup.

You can also explore our belay devices and trad climbing gear if you're building out the rest of your climbing equipment.

Frequently Asked Questions About Climbing Carabiners

What's the difference between an HMS and an oval carabiner?

An HMS carabiner has a wider basket designed to give ropes and knots more working space, while an oval carabiner has a symmetrical shape that helps connected equipment sit centrally. Which is more suitable depends on how you plan to use it and the equipment you're pairing it with.

Do I need a locking carabiner for belaying?

Many belay systems use a suitable locking carabiner, but the exact requirements depend on the belay device and setup. Always check the manufacturer's instructions for the device you're using rather than assuming any locking carabiner will be suitable.

Which carabiner should I use with my belay device?

That depends on the belay device. Shape, size and locking system can all affect compatibility, so check the manufacturer's guidance for your specific device. The Belay Master and Ultra O are designed for specific climbing and equipment uses, but their suitability should always be checked for your own setup.

Need Help Choosing Your Carabiners?

If you're comparing different shapes or trying to work out what will fit best with the equipment you already use, just tell us a little about your climbing and what you're looking to add.

Our coaches are happy to offer personalised equipment advice, so we can help you narrow down the options rather than leaving you to guess which carabiner is right for your setup. 

You can also browse our climbing ropes and climbing harnesses if you're putting together more of your kit.